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| Condensate Drain on Jeep Grand Cherokee |
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Question: Where is the condensate drain on the 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee?
This is one that quite a few people have problems with. Someone at Jeep thought it convenient to run the condensate drain into the longitudinal beam of the vehicle frame. Thus, you won't find a drain tube poking out anywhere under the vehicle. You'll find this design on 1993 though 1996 Grand Cherokee.
The main problem stems from the fact that the air intake grill outside the vehicle is not fine enough to capture as much debris as it should. Twigs, pine needles, etc, pass through the intake screen and clog the drain. And yes, there's an updated intake screen to lessen the possibility or another blockage. This clogged drain condition can lead to odor, sloshing sound in evaporator box and wet floorboard.
Here's the Gary Harrison method to get that condensate drain flowing again.
- Pull the carpet on front passenger side back to expose the circular duct at the base of the firewall.
- Drill a 1/4" hole in the center of the circular duct outlet. Water may
run out when you drill this opening.
- Run a coat hanger wire or similar through the drilled hole, and down the tube to "rod" it out. Outlet is forward and slightly downward.
- After clearing the drain, fashion a plug from some handy material. Parts stores have various size rubber plugs. Hot melt glue might work.
Chrysler has a Technical Service Bulletin for drain blockage. See TSB: 24-06-96
Affected Models:
1993 - 1996 (ZJ) Grand Cherokee / Grand Wagoneer 1993 - 1996 (ZG) Grand Cherokee (Outside U.S.)
Chrysler has a Technical Service Bulletin for an updated cowl screen. See TSB: 24-17-97 Affected Models:
1993 - 1996 (ZJ) Grand Cherokee / Grand Wagoneer
1993 - 1996 (ZG) Grand Cherokee (Outside U.S.)
We've included some photos to show you what the drain looks like.

Photo above shows the approximate location where the 1/4" hole is to be drilled.

With the evaporator box removed, you can actually see the drain tube.

Be sure to refer to TSB: 24-06-96
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| Visitor Comments |
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Comment #1 (Posted by an unknown user)
Thanks for your help. We are very greatful.
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Comment #2 (Posted by Dan Perkins)
Using a piece of wire (coat hanger) slide it up the drilled hole and work out the sludge. I suggest using a unibit or 1/4 wood bit to drill the hole to prevent cracking.
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Comment #3 (Posted by Bill - in Houston, Tx)
I developed a way to fix this problem in an hour with some simple tools and equipment any mechanic has. It does not involve disassembling the dash board or air conditioner in any way.
I posted digital photos of my "fix" on the internet 4 years ago when I developed it to fix the 95 grand cherokee I bought for my daughter to go to college in. The A/C still works great and the problem never came back.
I will start up my old computer and see if I still have the photos. If I do, I will repost the information and photos on this site in a few days.
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Comment #4 (Posted by dosboss)
OK, I've tried this. I have drilled the hole, fished with a coat hanger down the exit hole (which was strangely clear), blown it out with 150 PSI shop air on a tube type air chuck, sucked on the drilled hole with my shop vac, opened the cowling and removed the "fence" screen in the cowling and cleaned it out (almost nothing past the screen, all the gunk was in the wiper channel), and I still get the passenger-side "lake effect" on my '95 GC Laredo. Please, PLEASE tell me I don't have to pull the dash to get at the condenser housing. I remember what a nightmare it was on my '81 Capri, and I had to do that multiple times for those danged sub-spec, forever-cracking heater cores! (<-stronger wording needed here :)) If anyone's got an answer, please leave me a clue at dosboss64 at yahoo dot comm. Thanks in advance.
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Comment #5 (Posted by Paul in NJ)
This fix is exactally what the problem was.
I have a '96 GC and it was starting to smell like a locker room.
A quick drilling and about 4 passes with a wire coat hanger and she's flowing like Niagra Falls...
THANKS !!!!
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Comment #6 (Posted by Brandon from Texas)
If you have rodded out the drain hole and the floor is still getting wet, then the problem is most likely the seal between the evaporator case and the firewall. You can fix this by:
1) Pull the carpet back
2) Cut the black mat and get it out of your way
3) Use a tool of your choice to remove the old material
I use a small screwdriver
4) After all of the material is removed then blow the area
with and air blower to completely dry the area
5) Stuff some A/C Insulation tape (available at parts
stores) around the whole drain tube. It will be tough
because without removing the evap case, there is
little room to do so
6) That should take care of it
When the seal starts to deteriorate, then the water travels back on the outside of the tube and gets inside.
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Comment #7 (Posted by Paul Runge)
SWEET! I have had my 95 limited for 4 years now. When I bought it the previous owner said it had just been sitting for a while and the stale smell would eventually go away. ...riiighhht.... I'm excited to fix my drain and get rid of that darn stale smell! THankyou!
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Comment #8 (Posted by Steve)
Your pictures and solution worked beautifully on my "98 Grand Cherokee Limited. Drilled hole, snaked with hanger, cleared drain clog right up. Hot glue worked well to fill drill hole as well. Awesome advice. Thank you so much.
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Comment #9 (Posted by bsoloven)
great suggestion! used the 'harrison method' on a 97GC with immediate success! had already removed the passenger side dash, and was really not looking forward to further disassembly of the guts inside. thanks again.
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Comment #10 (Posted by Dan)
I have had this problem for at least 2 years and could never find a solution, you are a life (well jeep) saver. Thanks,
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Comment #11 (Posted by marty)
I just tried this. I hope it works
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Comment #12 (Posted by Ralph Adorno)
Bill - in Houston, Tx) did you ever find those pics you was looking for to show how to fix the drain leak without taking off the dash.?? you can write to me here if you like Mignamonet@yahoo.com
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Comment #13 (Posted by Olly- in australia)
cant wait to try this out.....thanks heaps guys
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Comment #14 (Posted by Ralph Adorno)
I did the Harrison method it work but still some water was coming in until i put silicone around the drain tube two or three times until it seal real good then blew air 135 of pressure through the hole i drill ithe first time and surely thank god it work ,,,,,Thanks guys ..
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Comment #15 (Posted by WPT...)
DOES THIT METHOD WORK ON AN 98 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE?
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Comment #16 (Posted by Bryan Southon)
gREAT INFORMATION HAVE TAKEN IT ON BOARD FOR FUTURE PROBLEMS ARISES THANK YOU .FROM GCZGLTD OWNER AUSTRALIA
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Comment #17 (Posted by Jim Futch)
Bill in Houston,
I am emailing you about some pics you said you might have. They were pics of how to fix the A/C condensate drain problem on a Jeep Grand Cherokee. If you have the pics would you mind sending them to me because I'm having the same problem. Thanks, jmdf13@tx.rr.com
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Comment #18 (Posted by Doug Burke)
I'm glad I found the "Harrison Method". It took a total of 120 minutes to solve a problem that has been bugging me for 6 months on my 96 Grand Cherokee Laredo. I used a 2 part putty to seal hte hole and it worked great. Thanks Gary!!!
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Comment #19 (Posted by Kathy El Chami)
Wow!!!!, I drained the lake, myself, this method worked great, and yes, even a girl can do it!!!!! Procrastinating Husbands beware, momma can use a power tool too! Thanks for the instructions and making it a simple fix!!!
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Comment #20 (Posted by BReale)
i am having this same problem with my '97 grand cherokee limited, but this remedy is only for '93 to '96. please advise if same remedy or what else can i do?
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Comment #21 (Posted by Jimmy M.)
I have a '96 GC Laredo. There has been stale smell for years whenever I start the Jeep but the smell goes away in a couple minutes. I did not notice the "lake effect" until my July 4th camping trip last week. After a two hour drive with A/C on, the entire rear passenger side floor was soaked. Water came from the right side A/C floor vent. Thanks Gary, for this knowledge base web site posting. I purchased part #5255217 (a rubber plug) and part #55036542 (cowl screen) from a Jeep dealer , performed the "Harrison Method" and procedures given in TSB: 24-06-96 and TSB:24-17-97. The two parts cost about $7 total. When I called the Jeep dealer about this problem, the service manager told me it would cost me $96 just to diagnose. Now the problem is fixed. With the removable plug on the hole and a coat hanger wire in the back, I can easily fix the problem anywhere if it ever happens again.
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Comment #22 (Posted by Jimmy M.)
I have a '96 GC Laredo. There has been stale smell for years whenever I start the Jeep but the smell goes away in a couple minutes. I did not notice the "lake effect" until my July 4th camping trip last week. After a two hour drive with A/C on, the entire rear passenger side floor was soaked. Water came from the right side A/C floor vent. Thanks Gary, for this knowledge base web site posting. I purchased part #5255217 (a rubber plug) and part #55036542 (cowl screen) from a Jeep dealer , performed the "Harrison Method" and procedures given in TSB: 24-06-96 and TSB:24-17-97. The two parts cost about $7 total. When I called the Jeep dealer about this problem, the service manager told me it would cost me $96 just to diagnose. Now the problem is fixed. With the removable plug on the hole and a coat hanger wire in the back, I can easily fix the problem anywhere if it ever happens again.
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Comment #23 (Posted by Kemp Fuller)
So awesome! This problem has been with us for 2+ years on our 96 GC. Took 10 minutes. I sealed the hole with Coax-Seal that we use for cable connectors. Moldable like Silly Putty, waterproof, stays flexible in case I need to repeat the procedure.
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Comment #24 (Posted by an unknown user)
All these years latter, NOW I find a solution.
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Comment #25 (Posted by Steve)
My 98 Gc was plugged .Not any more Thanks
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Comment #26 (Posted by dennis B)
Thanks ive been wrenchin over 30 years and had to clean many a evap drain The Damn Chiltons Jeep grand cherokee 93-04 manual shows a normal drain at the firewall I thought I was loosing it. The thing that kills me is I pulled up the mats found the drain from the inside but nothing from the outside,between the PCM being right there and the catiliac converters location I was thinking they probabley dumped it into the frame rail,but my handy chiltons hasa picture of the drain at the firewall I HATE CHILTONS MANUALS Thanks for confirming my suspisions
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Comment #27 (Posted by CJ Lindzy)
This worked like a charm! Drilled the hole and then used heavy wire to fish out some junk. Sealed the hole with silicone. Had to re-drill out the same hole and repeat the procedure. Got a lot more junk out the second time. Sealed it up with silicone. And now the carpet is completely DRY!! The water from the AC actually drips on to the ground under the vehicle instead of into the carpet. Thanks so, so much!
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Comment #28 (Posted by Wade T - Sumiton, AL)
I have 2 GC's 95 & 97 - This worked for both and A/C's still blowing cold. A good ole Southern Thanks.
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Comment #29 (Posted by KM JONES)
Man thank god i looked online.I just bought a used jeep and the other didn't tell me about the leak. Now i feel confident that i can get rid of that horrible smell after reading this.
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Comment #30 (Posted by jim j)
previous owner lied, chilton lied, but i dont even know you and you told the truth FOR FREE - now i can rip out the rugs and padding for about $200. THANK YOU JEEP ENGINEERS
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Comment #31 (Posted by stacy)
i drilled out the hole and cleared it out. but its still leaking. i tried stuffing ac insulation tape behind it and it still leaks through. i dont know what to do next. does anyone have any suggestions?
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Comment #32 (Posted by JOHN)
GREAT FIX. GOT AN ACCORN OUT OF MY A/C DRAIN.
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Comment #33 (Posted by CTE)
I was originally happy with Jeeps simplistic engineering and keeping thier vehicles user freindly, but this is one of the stupidest designs i haveever come accross. I like see how much revenue was made by charging outrageous A/C repairs for such a simple yet hidden problem.
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Comment #34 (Posted by christopherjellybean)
FINALLY! PICTURES OF where it is! Tried it...drilled it...cleaned it...flowing like my ex on her montly! (sorry ladies) as for plugging the hole, I used my old fog light drain plug that way if it happens ever again..no new hole...or wallowing out the old one! MANY MANY THANKS! Aftr hours of searching the internet- I finally have found a good use for my computer!
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Comment #35 (Posted by Rich Pasco)
I cleaned out the tube as above--the tube was not blocked--but it's still flooding the carpet. I can't see a crack in the housing. I wonder if the water is running back into the car along the outside of the tube. Does there need to be a gasket where the housing fits to the firewall?
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Comment #36 (Posted by stacy)
thanks for the info everyone. once i put some silicone behind the drain it works great. no more wet carpet. the seal musta been worn out where the firewall is. but thanks for the advice it worked great. :)
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Comment #37 (Posted by Josh Dixon)
I notices a chip on the bottom half of the evap box. Could this be the source of the water.....cause I just had the evap core replaced. If anyone has any idea if this is the case then let me know. And if they know a site that might sell the replacement evap box.
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